ABSTRACT
This
research work is on the production of using wool to make fashion accessories
which include hair net, hair packer, suit tag, skirt and top. The researcher
source the material of the research work in Ogbete main market Enugu. The
research work was carried out in IMT Enugu. The researcher analyzed the data
with the use of tables and percentage. the researcher find out that lack of
awareness on the new trends in the use of wool for fashion accessories. poor
knowledge of designers on the operation and usage of new and sophisticated
designs affect the designers to a large extent. the research equally discovered
that poor quality of materials used in the production affects the outputs.
Chapter four look at what the public have said about my effort while chapter
five concluded the summary, recommendations, suggestion for further studies,
then references.
TABLE
OF CONTENT
Title page ii
Approval Page iii
Dedication iv
Acknowledgment v
Table of Contents vii
CHAPTER
ONE
INTRODUCTION
Background of the study 1
Statement Of The Problems 27
Purpose of the study 27
Significance
of the study 29
Scope of the
study 30
Limitation
of the study 30
Definition
Of Terms 31
CHAPTER
TWO
LITERATURE
REVIEW
The
use of wool in Igbo culture and tradition 37
Wool:
An Overview 46
CHAPTER THREE
MATERIAL AND METHODS
Method
used in the production of hair net 53
Method
used in the production of hair packer 54
Method
used in the production of suiting 55
Method
used in the production of skirt 56
Method
used in the production of top 58
CHAPTER
FOUR
Data Analysis 62
CHAPTER
FIVE
Conclusion, Recommendations and Suggestion for further
studies
Conclusion 67
Recommendation 67
Suggestion For
Further 69
References 70
CHAPTER
ONE
INTRODUCTION
background
of the study
A wool is a textile fiber obtained form
sheep and certain other animals including cashmere from goats, mohair from
goats, quiet from muskoxen, angora from rabbits, and other types of wool
camelids (Braaten, 2010) Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from
hair or fur: it is crimped, it is elastics and it grows in staples. Wool is a
significant material in creating fashion accessories. Fashion accessories are
item used for complementing an outfit and chosen to specifically complement the
wearer’s look. They include beads, ear-rings, bangles, In Nigeria, wool is used
for creating fashion accessories and his can be found in the north and western
part of Nigeria. Various fashion wool accessories are still in vogue.
According to Uduma
(2007) wool
is one of nature’s best insulating fibers and has been used for making clothing
for centuries. Not only is wool extremely good at holding in warmth, it also
wicks moisture and dries faster than cotton. The most widely available type of
wool come from sheep. However, sheep aren't the only animal that produce
natural, warmth-enhancing fibers. Alpaca, angora rabbits and camels also produce
luxurious, wool-like fibers that are used for making high-quality might wear
and woven fabrics.
Benefits
of Wool in the fashion industry
According Anthony,(2010)
it
helps to understand some of the benefits that all types of wool offer. Wool has
several characteristics that other natural fibers like cotton and linen simply
can’t compete with.
Wool
is water resistant.
Anthony,(2010) said that Unlike
human hair or animal fur, wool fibers are actually hollow with a durable,
flexible and water-repellent exterior. The structure of wool fibers is composed
of small, overlapping sections, kind of like shingles on a roof. Each fiber's
core absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapor without becoming damp or
clammy. Meanwhile, the hard outer layer protects against outside moisture from
rain and snow.
Wool
wicks moisture.
Anthony,(2010) futher stated that
apoint
from blocking most external moisture, wool fibers wick perspiration away from
the body. Normally, as your sweat evaporates, heat is drawn away from your
skin. This effect is comforting in hot weather, but can dampen your clothing
and give you chills in colder weather. Unlike cotton, which absorbs moisture
and tends to remain wet, wool actually wicks perspiration and allows it to
evaporate quickly, thus keeping you warmer.
Wool
is a wonderful insulator.
According to Brenda,
(2003) wool
fibers are not perfectly smooth or straight. Instead, they’re crimped, which
helps produce tiny insulating air spaces that retain more heat. In a way, wool
functions similarly to the puffy fiberglass insulation inside the walls of a
house.
Wool
is breathable and regulates temperature.
Brenda, (2003) opined that wool
has a wide comfort range, which is very helpful for adapting to changing
weather conditions. This unique property makes wool the perfect fiber for
crafting outerwear and insulating apparel, since it has the ability to provide
warmth in colder conditions and also breathes well as temperatures warm up.
Wool
is naturally odor-resistant.
You may have noticed that synthetic
fabrics like polyester and polypropylene can begin to retain odors over time.
Wool is much more resistant to retaining odors. Sheep’s wool is also naturally
resistant to wrinkling and static. (Brenda, 2003)
Sheep’s
Wool
According to Derek,
(2012) there’s
an old Spanish proverb that says: "Wherever sheep's feet touch the ground,
the land turns to gold." Clearly the Spanish were onto something. Sheep's
wool is the most widely available type of wool and is sorted into several
quality levels. Fine-quality wool is used to make luxury garments likes suits
and dress pants. Medium-quality wool is used in the production of heavier sport
coats, sweaters and light blankets. Coarser wool is ideal for crafting heavy
blankets, topcoats, felt boot liners and upholstery products. Wool fibers have
many good qualities, including the following:
Wool maintains its shape when
stretched and is colorfast when dyedWool does not melt when exposed to
flame, like most synthetic fibersWool is biodegradable
There are several unique varieties of
sheep’s wool, and each has specific characteristics.
Shetland
Wool
Raised in the Shetland Islands off
Scotland’s northern coast, Shetland sheep produce very fine, lustrous wool,
which is cultivated from their soft undercoat. Warm, lightweight Shetland wool
is only available in limited quantities and natural colors. It’s most often
used in the production of high-end knitwear, sportswear and coats.(
Derek, 2012)
Merino
Wool
Cultivated from merino sheep, this type
of wool has superior shine, incredible softness and great breathability, along
with an excellent warmth-to-weight ratio. Merino has a nearly pure white color
that accepts dye very well. It’s also very strong, naturally elastic and soft
against the skin. Merino wool doesn’t have the coarse, itchy feel of standard
wool because merino fibers are much finer than standard sheep’s wool. (George,
2011)
According to Henry
(2012) The
vast majority of merino sheep are raised in the mountainous regions of
Australia and New Zealand. Today, there are more than ten different varieties
of merino sheep worldwide. Some well-known breeds include Australian, Peppin,
Saxony, Rambouillet, Vermount and South African.
Lamb’s
wool
Henry (2012) is of the view that this
is considered to be the highest quality sheep's wool on the market. Lambswool
is taken from a sheep at its first shearing (usually when the sheep is about
seven months old). Lambswool is incredibly soft, smooth, resilient, elastic and
has superior spinning properties. Because of its silkiness, softness and
warmth, lambswool can be worn comfortably against the skin. It’s also the most
hypoallergenic of all wools and is resistant to dust mites, making it a fine
choice for bedding and linens.
Loden
Wool
Loden wool originated in the Tyrolean
Alps in the 16th century and is still highly popular among sportsmen. Loden is
characterized by a slightly 'greasy' feeling and is frequently used to make
heavy coats. Loden's luxurious nap is combed downward, creating a shingle
effect that sheds water very effectively. (Henry 2012)
Melton
Wool
According to Judith(2010)
Melton
wool fibers are thick with a smooth exterior surface. Due to the finishing
processes that completely conceals the weave, this type of wool makes very
solid cloth. Melton wool is durable, water-resistant and wind resistant. The
thickest weights of melton wool are often used to make heavy outerwear,
including jackets and wool pants. Thinner weights are used to make sweaters and
socks.
Sheep’s
Wool Grades
Wool grades are selected to suit the
needs of the products being made. Different wool grades offer different fiber
lengths, fiber thicknesses and other properties. (Judith2010)
Virgin Wool
has two definitions. First, it is the wool taken from a lamb's first
shearing, which is the softest and finest sheep’s wool available. Second,
virgin wool can refer to wool that has never been used, processed or woven
before. This type of virgin wool can come from an adult sheep.'Super' Wools
are classified by the count or the fineness of the yarn used to make a
particular cloth. The finer the count (measured in microns), the more
fibers are used per square inch of cloth. The higher the number, the finer
and softer the cloth will be. 'Super' wools are put into the following
categories: Super 100's, Super 110's, Super 120's and Super 150's. For
example, Super 100's wool must contain fibers that are finer than 18
microns. Super 150's wool must contain fibers that are finer than 15
microns. Statistically, Super 150's wool is actually finer than cashmere.Boiled Wool
is created by putting sheep’s wool through a special washing process that
creates a dense, durable and water-resistant fabric with a texture similar
to thick felt. Boiled wool has the suppleness of a knit with the shape
retention of a woven fabric. Boiled wool is frequently used to make
slippers, hats, gloves, scarves and a variety of outerwear.Worsted Wool
has been manufactured in Worstead, England since the eighteenth century.
Wool fibers are spun into compact, smoothly twisted yarn before weaving or
knitting. The wool then goes through a second combing process which
removes unwanted short fibers. Because the remaining long-staple fibers
lay flat and parallel, worsted wool is a popular choice for suiting and
dress trousers. It also resists wrinkles and creases.Tropical Weight Wool
is a two-ply, plain-woven, worsted wool that sturdy, lightweight, airy and
breathable. Tropical wool (sometimes called summer weight wool) is used to
make warm-weather suits and other garments that can be worn in warmer
weather.Shearling
is lambskin or sheepskin that has been tanned with the wool still adhered
to the hide. Shearling is luxuriously soft, supple and warm, which makes
it a popular choice for crafting slippers and sheepskin boots.Flannel, wool fleece, gabardine
and tweed are other popular fabrics that are frequently made from sheep's
wool or a blend containing wool. (Judith, 2010)
Other
Types of Wool
Alpaca
Wool
According to Khaminiwa
(2007) Softer
and sturdier than cashmere and lighter than sheep's wool, alpaca fleece is a
luxurious commodity that produces warm, silky, durable and feather-light
garments. Alpaca wool boasts tremendous warmth and insulation with a soft drape
and texture. Alpaca is frequently used to craft upscale suits, sportswear,
sweaters, outerwear linings, draperies, bedspreads and baby clothing and
blankets.
There are two breeds of alpaca: Huacaya
and Suri. Combined, both produce more than 20 different colors of fleece. The
more common Huacaya breed produces dense, thick, crimped and fast-growing
fleece. The rarer Suri alpaca has long, lustrous fleece that takes more time to
grow. Some key benefits of alpaca include:
A fine, silky and lightweight
fiberNice lusterCreates strong, durable and
pill-resistant fabrics
Mohair
According to Mark
(2012)The
Angora goat produces mohair wool, which is known for its silkiness and lustrous
sheen. A very good insulator, mohair is also strong, durable, breathable and
lightweight. Although it accepts dyes well, natural mohair wool fabric is
exceptionally beautiful because of its color variations. Mohair fabrics tend to
be non-crushing, non-matting and non-pilling. Mohair is used in high-quality
suiting, sweaters, dresses, scarves, blankets and baby clothing and blankets.
Some key benefits of mohair include:
A lustrous, silky appearanceLightweight and exceptionally
durable fibersFabrics drape wellNon-crushing, non-matting and
non-pillingAbsorbs dye wellDoes not stretch, so fabrics and
knits maintain shape well
Angora
Mark (2012) further stated that Angora
wool is an extraordinarily soft fiber produced from the fur of the Angora
rabbit. The fibers are hollow, which gives them excellent loft and a very
lightweight feel. Angora wool is exceptionally soft and possess the highest
heat retention of any natural fiber (two-and-a-half times warmer than sheep's
wool). It also has the best moisture-wicking properties of any natural fiber.
He opined that because angora fibers
are so fine and fragile, they are almost always combined with other fibers to
create garments. Most often, angora is blended with other wools to increase
warmth and enhance softness. Angora-blended apparel can be worn outside in very
cold conditions and then immediately worn inside without overheating. Because
angora involves a laborious harvesting process and a small number of producers,
most angora wool products are quite expensive.
Benefits
of angora wool include:
Extremely soft, lofty, lustrous
and lightweight fibersBest heat retention of all natural
woolsNaturally resistant to odors
Cashmere
According to Peter
(2014) Cashmere
is an extremely soft fiber cultivated from the Kashmir goat. Native to India,
Tibet, Turkistan, Iran, Iraq and China, Kashmir goats produce hair with a soft,
lofty feel and a natural crimp. Cashmere wool is actually the downy wool that
grows beneath a Kashmir goat's coarser exterior hair. Fibers are cultivated by
combing the goat rather than clipping it. Each goat only produces a few ounces
of cashmere per year, which makes it one of the most expensive natural fibers.
Peter (2014) said that the
natural crimp of cashmere fibers allows them to interlock during processing,
resulting in very fine, lightweight yarns. Cashmere knits and fabrics retain
the loft of the naturally crimped fibers, which makes them warm and very
lightweight. However, cashmere is less durable than wools produced by sheep.
Key benefits of cashmere include:
Extremely soft and lofty fibers
with a natural crimpFabrics and knits are lightweight
and breathableAdjusts to humidity in the air for
adaptability in all climates
Camel
Hair
Like other luxury “wools,†camel hair
is extremely soft, durable, lustrous, lightweight and warm. Clothing
manufacturers frequently leave camel hair fabric in its natural state (a
lustrous golden brown), but it may also dyed navy, red or dark brown. Since it’s
so highly prized and expensive to harvest, camel hair is usually blended with
sheep's wool to make it more economical for the manufacturer to produce. (Sara,
2011)
Fine-quality camel hair comes from the
Bactrian (two hump) camel, which is bred in the extremely cold climates of
China and Mongolia. The hair is gathered when the camel molts instead of by
shearing or clipping. Camel hair suits, coats, blazers, jackets, skirts and
hosiery are prized for their drape and soft feel. Because of its warmth, camel
hair is also used to make sweaters, gloves, scarves and coats. Key benefits of
camel hair include:
Very soft and fine fibersPleasing, golden-brown colorLustrous, durable and lightweight
Thanks for checking out our wool guide!
According to Sara
(2011) Wool's
scaling and crimp make it easier to spin the
fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so they stay
together. Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other
textiles, and they hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat. Insulation
works both ways: Bedouins and Tuaregs use wool clothes to keep heat out and
protect the body.
Felting of wool occurs upon hammering
or other mechanical agitation as the microscopic barbs on the surface of wool
fibers hook together.
The amount of crimp corresponds to the
fineness of the wool fibers. A fine wool like Merino
may have up to 100 crimps per inch, while the coarser wools like Karkul may
have as few as one or two. In contrast, hair has little if any scale and no
crimp, and little ability to bind into Yam.
On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called Kemp. The relative amounts of
kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting,
or carding
into batts for quilts or other insulating
products, including the famous tweed
cloth of Scotland.
Wool fibers readily absorb
moisture, but are not hollow. Wool can absorb
almost one-third of its own weight in water.[3]
Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics. It is generally a creamy white
color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black,
brown, silver, and random mixes.
According to Schreuder
(2010) Wool
ignites at a higher temperature than cotton
and some synthetic fibers. It has a lower rate of flame spread,
a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion, and does not melt or drip;
it forms a char which is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes
less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in
carpets.[5]
Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and
aircraft. Wool is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers,
and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire.
Wool is considered by the medical
profession to be hypoallergenic.
Processing
According to Szokolay (2013) Sheep shearing
is the process by which the woolen fleece of a sheep is cut off. After
shearing, the wool is separated into four main categories: fleece (which makes
up the vast bulk), broken, bellies, and locks. The quality of fleeces is
determined by a technique known as wool classing,
whereby a qualified person called a wool classer groups wools of similar
gradings together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner. In Australia
and New Zealand, before being
auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for micron,
yield (including the amount of vegetable matter), staple length, staple
strength, and sometimes color and comfort factor. The sheep is given a dip in
antiseptic solution after shearing, so as to cure the wounds caused during
shearing.
Scouring
According to Tiwari
(2010) Wool
straight off a sheep, known as "greasy wool" or "wool in the
grease", contains a high level of valuable lanolin,
as well as dead skin, sweat residue, pesticides, and vegetable matter. Before
the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of
cleaning the greasy wool. Scouring may be as simple as a bath in warm water or
as complicated as an industrial process using detergent
and alkali
in specialized equipment. In north west England, special potash pits
were constructed to produce potash
used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white
wool.
In commercial wool, vegetable matter is
often removed by chemical carbonization.
In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of
the lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents. This semigrease
wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant
mittens or sweaters, such as those of the Aran Island
fishermen. Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic
products such as hand creams.
statement
of the problem
A reasonable number of problem resulted
me, embarking on this research wok thus:
The trending development in the use of
wool in an accessing for fashion making in Nigeria is no encouraging compare to
the modern society. Again it is viewed that the poor knowledge of the use of
wool has contributed to the fall of textile industries in Nigeria.
purpose
of the study
The study is to create awareness about
the modern trend in the use and application of certain fashion accessories in
the state. The study is specifically sough to:
1) Trace
the origin and the use of wool in making fashion accessories.
2) To
introduce new techniques in the production of fashion accessories using wool.
3) Assists
the younger designer in developing skills needed in meeting international.
Skin-dard in the production and designing fashion world.
4) to
design and produce fashion items such as, hair net hair packer clothing etc.
5) To
find out the various items present in Enugu state.
6) To
find out the level at which people study fashion designing and understand value
in the use of wool.
7) To
examine the different qualities and types of wool and purpose they can be used
on in creating fashion accessories.
Significance of the study
This
project will be beneficial to fashion designer since it will reveal various
fashion trend that are accessible to the fashion industry in Nigeria. It will
aid local designers in improving their creative techniques with the use of
wool. And finally it will serve as a research medium for student in fashion
designing and clothing technology (FDCT) who would embark on similar topic. It
will also improve our marketing industry. Since I will harvest spirit of
creating and craft man ship among our local designers.
Nigeria
as a country will benefit from the result of this research work as it will
proffer possible ways of encouraging the use of wool in fashion outfit in the
country Nigeria, since the country is richly blessed with agricultural produce.
This
study will also be of immense help to students in IMT Enugu as it will reveal
the potentials of wooden accessories.
scope
of the study
The research work is carried out in Udi
Local Government Area Enugu state Nigeria, it covers the construction of hair
pack, clothing hair net, ribbon etc using wool as accessories for fashion out
fit in Udi LGA.
Limitations of the study
The
problems encountered by the researcher in this research work includes the
following;
Time limit:
The time mapped out for this research work by the school management is not
enough for the researcher as she had to combine the research with other
academic activities.
Lack of Sufficient Raw Material: Fashion material are very scarce within the
area of this research work as the researcher had to travel to so many places in
search of materials.
Limited Information Sources:
limited information is one major challenge faced by the researcher since many
fashion firms refused to release certain information which they feel are very
confidential to the management.
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